Blasts away oil, dirt, flux reside and condensation from sensitive electronics and electrical equipment with pinpoint precision. It dries quickly, leave no residue and removes more soil than leading competitors, making it the best at cleaning electrical contacts. Safe to use and state VOC compliant, it's ideal for use on printed circuit boards, controls, switches, precision instruments and electric panels. Related Products. Average Customer Ratings. Rating Snapshot. I bought this but not sure if I can use it.
The 3M novec apparently is labeled non flammable but I am unsure if this matters? Who Would Have Thought. I bought this because I restore vintage electronic components, so when I saw the reviews I was happy that WD40 had a Electrical Contact Cleaner as a solution. First can I bought I read the instructions and made sure to shake well. I figured bad batch, second can I bought same exact thing.
Seems like I can use it more as a compressed air can. Spared me Expensive Replacement. Have 2 expensive remote control fans that stopped responding to the switch. Both fan companies said that the "fix" would be to order a second remote PLUS the receiving units in the fans that are mounted on cathedral type ceiling.
Saw a Google post that someone used electrical Contact Cleaner. Ordered the WD 40 product immediately. Disassembled the remotes, sprayed and replaced. Fans are back in working order! As an aside, I am a senior citizen widow. One "flaw"--Directions on the can for Spray versus Stream are reversed. Excellent for cleaning solder flux. Solder joints look so clean. And what used to clean connectors speed sensor and transmission neutral sensor that were filled with transmission oil, a long time ago, they were like new.DeOxit vs WD40 vs Contact Cleaner - Shootout
Thank you. Best product of its kind I've ever used. I've just used this on some noisy amplifier pots that have received no maintenance for 30 years. Previous experience with other brands led me to assume that at least some of the pots would be beyond cleaning and need replacing, but this stuff brought even the worst of them back to life. Far exceeded my expectations and saved - or at least postponed - a tedious replacement job.
I talk to a rep at the SEMA show about theses product and the contact cleaner does clean very well. I was hoping that it would clean the green corrosion off of the electrical terminals, but no luck. Other then that it is a a good product. I did have a problem with the straw the first time it was uses but all that need to be done was reinstall the straw cap.
Thanks WD for your products.Forgot your password? Several of the pots are "scratchy" on both amps. Other than the obvious remove amp from cabinet what is the best way to clean the various pots? And what is a good cleaner to use?
I bought a can of De-Oxit not too long ago, and it has worked very well for me. I think removing the chassis from the cabinet is by far the best way, though I have had some success spraying it on the shaft. I like to use a cloth or napkin to catch the overspray. I ordered Deoxit, and it's 2 other Deoxit products one's a pot lube, etc and they should be here the end of the wk. Certainly I was planning on pulling the chassis and opening it up to really get at the pots.
DeOxit is wonderful stuff. Make sure you unplug the amp and leave it unplugged for a day or two to let the caps discharge before you open it up.
Better yet, learn how to safely discharge your amp's filter caps and do so after leaving the amp unplugged for a day or two. Safety first! I don't recommend trying to spray it into the shafts from the front. Open the amp up and spray into the holes in the sides of the pots while simultaneously rotating them through their full range of rotation.
Let everything dry for a few hours before you button it all back up.
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I'll try to follow up after I'm done. I don't recommend spraying it into the shafts from the front, either, but I tried it once didn't have time to take the chassis out and it worked that time. I'm pretty sure that it would not work on more modern pots than the 60s-vintage pots on that amp. Background: a while back, I blew out the tuner on my receiver. In order to have a radio, I hijacked my wife's portable boom box, and wired a cord from the headphone output to a high efficiency high fidelity speaker.
Worked okay. At one point, she mentioned her old table radio. We used to use it, but it reached a point where the volume control was so scratchy that it was practically useless. I always figured that a good cleaning was all it needed, but it's been on a shelf, unused, for some twelve or fifteen years. And when I say old table radio, I mean old. She's had it since It's an Emerson.Is that crackling and popping when you turn the controls on your amp driving you crazy?
Here's how to clean them and get back to the music. There are spray "contact cleaners" available for this purpose, but in most cases just mixes the dirt and grime already inside with more dirt and assembly grease and may make the control operate worse than it is already.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. The first step is to remove the knobs and nuts mounting the controls to the front panel to the amplifier. Remember to keep all the parts sorted so you can find them later. After the circuit board is removed from the amplifier box, each control is removed and cleaned one part at a time. Do not take them all off at the same time, because you may mix them up.
Open the control potentiometer or "pot" by lifting the mounting tabs slightly. Remember that these tabs will not handle being bent more than a few times before they break off. If a tab breaks off, you may be able to solder it back on later. The control is made up of two main parts. The contacts and the carbon resistor. Each side must be cleaned without damaging them further. If the carbon looks burnt or has broken areas, the entire control may need to be replaced.
If the contacts are worn too much or broken, the entire control may need to be replaced. Carefully, clean the contacts and carbon with a pencil eraser. Do not push too hard, and clean the eraser on a piece of paper when it gets too dirty. Do not use any cleaner or solvent except rubbing alcohol or cleaner designated for this type of control. Make sure to blow off any eraser particles left on the control before assembling the part.
If you are cleaning a dual control, the method will be the same, however it will take twice as long, and you must align both controls so they go back together correctly. Being careful not to forget any parts, recrimp the case making sure not to bend the case or trap any parts between the case and the parts inside.
Turn the control and check for a nice smooth motion from the 0 to 10 locations. The control should move approx. If you think you assembled one incorrectly, set it aside, and open the next one to look at how it should be assembled to fix the last one.
It only takes a minute to sign up. I have a couple of potentiometers that haven't been touched in quite some time. In fact, probably not in 15 years.
So now they produce noisy output, presumably from oxides or some other crud that has built up on the contact surfaces. Might be hard to get the same form factor. Certain retailers used to carry this stuff that came in a can like wd, complete with a little red tube for injecting the stuff into exactly this kind of part. You'd squirt a tiny amount into the noisy pot, wiggle the knob times, and no more noisy output.
So there's the proof of concept that it can be done, but this magic stuff seems to have vanished from the shelves. It had to just be some kind of solvent, like xylene or something. Any ideas on what would clean the corrosion dust? It doesn't really matter that much what cleaner you use, provided that it doesn't leave behind any film.
So I wouldn't use WD40 or anything that says that it lubricates. Isopropyl alcohol works well too - You can submerge the pot and give it a good soaking, then just turn the wiper backward and forward a few times to make sure it's well worked in. Then just leave it to dry before turning the electrical equipment back on. I don't know if I'd say it's vanished I picked up some stuff not DeoxIT that did a cleaning, but it didn't last very long maybe a couple of months.
Deoxit is better, I hear. I was cleaning potentiometers in a s Marantz amplifier. It was a 4. Scratching noise is a sign of a possible design neglect in the circuit: namely, a DC potential across the wiper contact. Quiet operation is ensured by allowing only AC signal through the pot. Even a brand new pot, especially a cheap carbon one, will make scratching noises if DC is flowing through it.
I'd like to throw my support behind the answers which recommend isopropyl alcohol, as I have had excellent results. I bought an old 70's era cassette deck for parts, which had a very nice dual concentric pot recording levelbut was no longer usable since it was horribly scratchy.
After soaking overnight use a jar with tight lidit was in perfect like-new condition! You can just clean it with WD40 and then, find a hole on the body usually it has one! Came across this post looking for appropriate solutions to clean a scratchy potentiometer I had on a high-powered home amplifier. I used a alcohol based screen cleaner spray I had set aside since I couldn't find anything reasonably cheap or adequate to use around the house.
After using this screen cleaner over the past year, since it's alcohol based it evaporates at a reasonably fast rate which is quite suitable. I sprayed the pot a couple times without opening it, gave it a couple turns to loosen any dust and dirt, let it dry and it's working like a charm. Would recommend it over other solutions, Windex can be a little tricky to use and it will leave some chemicals behind which might influence the life span of your pot.
How to Clean a Guitar Amplifier
But hey, if you want some lavender scented variable resistors, I'm not one to judge.Click for industry uses. Well, most of the time it is caused by ONE of the thousands of metal connections in the system or device. All electronic connections deteriorate which cause reduced performance or perhaps total failure.
These tough contaminants actually attach to and become an integral part of the contact metal. This issue causes increased unnecessary service calls for covered warranty repairs that could have been prevented, translating into literally millions of dollars of lost revenue for service organizations. The only true method of eliminating oxidation and surface sulfides is by chemical action and reaction.
Many raw materials and components are produced around the world. Quality control from multiple sources becomes very difficult to manage and verify prior to assembly, test, package and shipment to the end customer. When parts and devices are manufactured in remote locations, it is almost impossible to ensure the connections are clean and ready for equipment assembly.
Over time all electronic connections deteriorate which can cause reduced performance or perhaps total failure. If only one of the thousand connectors in a system becomes intermittent or fails, then the equipment will causes errors, misreadings, noise, distortion, reboot, not start or total failure. Special additives improve conductivity and prevent dissolved oxides from re-attaching, keeping them in suspension and allowing them to be easily dispersed by the mechanical action of the contact.
Add to cart Show Details. Product Information. Data Sheets. Technical Information. MSDS Sheets. Improves part performance Maintains part specifications and integrity Protects metal surfaces in transit Protects surfaces in storage before assembly.
Lubricates and protects surface during assembly and Improves connection performance Protects integrity and reliability of equipment Long-lasting and safe to use.Log in or Sign up. The Gear Page. What's the best spray cleaner to use on an amp's switches etc.? Jan 21, 1. Messages: 12, What's the safest and best spray cleaner to use on an amp's internal parts? I'd like to clean some switches that are shorting out. I have an old can of Blue shower.
Is this safe? Or should I use something better? Jan 21, 2. Messages: 2, I use DeoxIT. Maltese FanJan 21, Jan 21, 3. Messages: 7, I use CRC quick dry with no lubricant on tube sockets and switches. Jan 21, 4. Messages: I use CRC also. Jan 21, 5. Messages: 3, Sorry to get pedantic, but electronics demands precision so let's be precise about our use of words.
If they can be fixed by cleaning, your switches are not "shorting out" they are "dirty. I'd use those for your switches. The Blue Shower is extremely aggressive and at its best for cleaning boards and mechanisms and can be extremely harsh on pots if it gets in there. It's sorta like the electronics equivalent of brake parts cleaner. Pretty nasty stuff. It can be used on most switches, but will remove any lubricants in there and can leave them feeling rough and prone to sticking.
Follow up the cleaning with a lubricant if you use it. Or, IMO use something milder instead. RonsonicJan 21, Jan 22, 6. Messages: 1, The absolute best stuff for this purpose was R12 freon.Cleaning guitar amplifiers is easy because they usually have open backs with a vinyl type of covering.
Closed back cabinets with "fuzzy" or carpet style coverings tend to be bass amplifiers. Cleaning guitar amplifier jacks and pots regularly will help prevent certain failures, while cleaning guitar amplifier exterior coverings will help preserve the amplifier's appearance.
Power off the amplifier and unplug it. Wait for the amplifier to be completely cooled down before cleaning. Use the hose attachment of a vacuum cleaner to vacuum the inside of the cabinet and back of speakers.
Vacuum over any grills or vents in the metal chassis of the amplifier. Clean the outside of the cabinet using a clean cotton rag and spray cleaner. Since any liquid getting into the interior of the amplifier can cause damage, never spray the unit with cleaner.
Apply cleaner to the rag and then wipe the exterior of the cabinet. Clean the face of the amplifier with the cotton rag, reapplying cleaner if necessary. If the face is particularly dirty, knobs of the amplifier may need to be removed. Turn all knobs completely to the left.
Most knobs can be removed with a firm tug, but some knobs may have a set screw securing them to the potentiometer shaft. These set screws will need to be removed. Clean under the knobs as necessary and replace them so their indicators point to the extreme left position. Rotate each knob from right to left and back quickly 10 to 20 times. This will help clear away any debris inside the potentiometer itself and reduce crackling and drop-outs. Apply contact cleaner to the rag and place a single thickness of the cloth over a three quarter inch female plug.
A guitar cord works great for this and it will not damage the plug. Insert and remove the female plug with the cloth over it into every plug in the amplifier, even if they are not normally used.
Re-apply cleaner as necessary. If the rag has been stained black or brown, reinsert the cloth until it is clean when removed. Alternately, sponge tipped not cotton tipped cleaning swabs may be used.
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